A couple of years ago, a new cheeky restaurant saw the light of day in the Meatpacking District of Copenhagen. The kitchen is playful, eclectic and international and the clientele consists of both gourmets and gourmands*. Welcome to Restaurant Kul – a different player on the Copenhagen food scene.
At the heart of the Meatpacking District
Located in simple and urban cool surroundings, Kul appeals to both locals, street kids and those, who know how to appreciate a proper meal. The Meatpacking District in Copenhagen has long been the gathering point for all kinds of people and this is definitely reflected in the interior of the restaurant.A neon sign welcomes you at the entrance and allures you into the blacked out rooms, where guests are popping in for a house cocktail followed by a meal. Thoughts are drawn to the Meatpacking District in New York, where this undoubtedly would be a bullet proof concept as well.
The center of attention is the open kitchen in which trained chefs are working their magic with the grill (“Kul” means “coal”). Guests are definitely tempted by juicy meat, but Kul is not – as one might think – a steak restaurant. In here, one will experience a melting pot of international delicacies. It is a fest for the senses! We find both Nordic, Japanese and French cuisine represented on the menu, which is quite short and simple. Ironically enough that does not make it any easier to choose, but quality is absolutely on the highest level here.
The friendly waiters are young and dressed in denim from top to toe; they fit perfectly into the urban settings, and upon arrival they recommended us to try a house cocktail. We do, but it is not a huge success; maybe we were expecting something else? This is also a part of the package; Kul challenges your taste buds and reveals a different side of each ingredient, which is definitely an interesting experience too.
We could either choose from the menu or let the kitchen surprise us. We choose the latter and so a symphony of different taste experiences quickly arrived at our table. With influences from both India, France and Japan, we were definitely surprised with Bloody Mary oysters, Teriyaki spareribs and veal tenderloin. But the most spectacular dish was probably the lumpfish roe hiding under a flatbread disguised as a lid.
Kul presents an impressive wine list from which we enjoyed a Riesling followed by a Tempranillo – perfectly paired with the food. Ask to see the wine list before ordering dessert, as there is a delicious 10 years Tawny Port hiding there!
Restaurant Kul is definitely a gastronomical highlight and one of Copenhagen’s interesting newcomer’s on the food scene. A couple of years after its opening it still manages to surprise and challenge the taste buds of every single guest. In 2014 the restaurant won the prize of ‘best bistro of the year’.
For more information go to www.restaurantkul.dk.
* A gourmet is a connoisseur of fine food and drinks – an epicure. A gourmand is one who takes great pleasure in consuming fine food and drinks.